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buying used tips
If paying for the services provided by a dealer
doesn't really appeal, there's always the private route. The
seller on the street has no overheads, no legal obligation to
prepare and valet the car, and rarely offers a warranty. As such,
costs will be respectively lower of that in a car dealership.
There can be certain risks involved as devious sellers may
try to use private sales to off load unsatisfactory or stolen
cars.
But please don't let this put you off. If you're sensible,
buying privately can have you motoring for far less money
than if you'd
chosen to buy from a dealer.
But you need to be aware of the following:
Part-exchanges are hardly ever considered, meaning you'll have
to sell your old car yourself, or dispose of it at trade
price to a dealer.
You won't get a warranty.
The checks that a dealer is bound to make by law aren't a benefit
in a private sale. This can be expensive if you choose to go
the full professional inspection route.
As long as you make the right checks, buying a car privately
can be more satisfying and financially rewarding than the dealer
route, it just takes a little more work and effort.
You have less legal return than you do through
a dealer. Cars advertised for private sale must be "as described" but
that's about as far as the legal responsibility goes.
Car checks
If you're alert and know what you're looking for, you can tell
if a car is straight or not almost right away. Accident damage,
signs of disregard or even just signs of wear all give themselves
away.
Outside Checks
When walking around a car, focus on the following:
Poor quality paint, similar to above - not all repairers can
paint to factory standard. Also look along window rubbers
and other trims for signs of over spraying.
Worn tyres, is the tyre worn even? If not the alignment may
be out. Are the tyres all the same brand? Be careful to inspect
the insides of the tyre to check for uneven wear.
'Bow legs', crouch down again - does the car sit straight?
Are the wheels aligned correctly, or are they at funny angles?
Are
the wheel gaps the same between the arches of each side? No
to any of the above indicates chassis damage.
A wrinkled panel, filler is almost always visible, crouch down
at the front or back and look along the panels - damage will
be obvious.
Panel slits, should be consistent, and so worry if a front
wing is 'closer' to the bonnet at some point. Poor panel
fit nearly
always gives poor repair work away.
Inside Checks
Open the doors, check for any theft damage around the lock
or handle? And, once inside, check for:
Odometer position, the numbers are not normally uneven in the
display, so if they look wonky it could be because they have
been tampered with. Sadly, the mileage reading on the most
modern digital odometers can be re-aligned in seconds with
a computer.
Soft worn seats, a well-worn or shapeless driver's seat suggests
heavy usage. Look at the driver, check the mileage, is the
wear what you'd expect for the two?
Shiny plastics, steering wheel, gear knob and pedal rubbers
suggest 100,000 miles, not the 15,000 miles on the clock.
Under the carpets, lift the carpets in the boot, to check for
crash damage, rippling or any weld marks. Also check the VIN
(Vehicle Identification Number) with the one on the registration
document, do they tally? Damp carpets in a cabriolet suggest
a poorly fitted hood, or a careless owner; ask why they're
wet.
Seatbelts, do they return properly, are they worn or broken.
Be very wary of any damage to seatbelts.
Theft damage is the steering column ill fitting or damaged?
Are there glass fragments under the seat? Does the door trim
not
fit correctly? Joy riders don't care how much damage they do
- either visible or under the skin.
Under the bonnet
Okay, were not all mechanics, but a few simple checks can reveal
a number of unfavourable and expensive problems.
Check the oil level, if it's low or sludgy then the owner is
unlikely to have changed it for a while. That should make you
worry about the general maintenance the car has had too.
Check the oil filler cap for white deposits or foam. If present,
the cylinder head gasket has gone - serious, and expensive.
Temperature gauges should be in the normal zone after a short
drive - worry if they're not.
Look under the bonnet for leaks of oil, water or
hydraulic fluid - watch out for whisps of smoke too.
Documents
It is important that you get as much documentation with your
car as possible. The vital documents are the V5 or logbook
and a current MOT, unless the car is less than three years old
or
the seller has told you that it doesn't have one.
A service book that is full of dealer stamps indicates
that the car has been maintained, but they can be fraudulently
completed, so it is a good idea to call the garage to check they
have carried out the work.
Check the registration number, colour and the VIN and engine numbers
tally with the car.
The more documents you get, the better. Past MOT certificates
and invoices for servicing and parts give a good idea of whether
the car has been cared for and if the mileage is genuine.
Check that the car is UK registered. If it has been imported,
it will be worth less than an official UK-supplied car.
Make a note of the previous keeper's details - you can contact
them to confirm details of the car, such as mileage, condition
and any damage details.
Make sure you see the original document. If the seller can
only provide a copy, be suspicious.
The V5 document is the most important document when buying
a car. It provides important information about the car, and
is
worth examining carefully.
If the V5 has CT printed at the bottom, it may mean that it's
had a private number plate at some point, and has been re-registered.
Check that the person selling the car is the recorded keeper
on the V5, if they're not, why? The seller may not be entitled
to sell the car legally.
If the seller can't provide the V5, or it looks unoriginal, think
twice about buying the car. You may like to seek further advice
from the
on 0870 240 0010. Or click onto
were you can carry out a Car Data Check online.
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